Start from seed: Late December-early January
Optimum soil temperature for germination: 20-25°C
Plant seedlings: January
Plant spacing: 25-30 cm
Days to maturity: 80-115 days for heading varieties, 55-80 days for leaf chicories, longer for forcing witloof to get chicons.

Introduction

Chicory (Cichorium intybus) refers to pale green Belgian endive (witloof), sugarloaf with loose leafed frilly leaves, and the red leaved radicchio (Cichorium intybus var. foliosum). Chicory and radicchio are in the Asteraceae family, which also includes lettuce, endive, and sunflowers. Although mostly grown for the edible leaves, chicory has been grown for its edible taproot. These versatile vegetables have been cultivated in Europe, particularly Italy, for centuries. Chicory grown for its tap root is classified as Cichorium intybus var. sativum. In the past the root was roasted and used as a caffeine-free coffee substitute. 

Chicory comes in several forms: wild chicory with its blue flowers and bitter leaves; Belgian endive (witloof) grown for its forced, blanched heads called chicons; and radicchio with its distinctive red and white coloration. Radicchio varieties include the round Chioggia type and the elongated Treviso type. Due to recent breeding programs there are many beautiful varieties to choose from.

Known for their bitter or tangy flavour that adds complexity to salads and cooked dishes, chicory and radicchio are rich in vitamins A, C, K, and B vitamins, as well as minerals like potassium and manganese. The bitterness is caused by a substance called sesquiterpene lactone in the latex sap that is present in many members of the Asteraceae family. Its role is to deter insects and animals from eating the plants. Chicory and radicchio also contain inulin, a prebiotic fibre that supports digestive health.

Site and soil

Chicory and radicchio grow well in Canberra’s climate if planted between the summer solstice and early January. 

Prepare the soil by incorporating compost or well-rotted manure and complete organic fertiliser to create a fertile, well-draining growing medium. Endive prefers a slightly acidic to neutral soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Unlike many vegetables, chicory and radicchio can tolerate slightly poorer soils, which can actually enhance their flavour complexity.

For container growing, use pots at least 20 cm deep with good drainage holes. Fill with premium potting mix enhanced with compost and complete organic fertilizer. Container cultivation works well for chicory and radicchio, allowing you to move plants to optimal conditions as the season progresses.

For details on preparing soil and pots, including the use of lime, dolomite, gypsum and fertilizers, please refer to the COGS guide to garden bed preparation.

Planting Seeds and Seedlings

Chicory and radicchio can be direct-sown or started as seedlings. For success, adhering to the narrow planting window between the 21s December and the first week of January is essential. 

Germination can be patchy so for best results sow in cell trays or seedling trays for transplanting later. Seeds typically germinate within 7-14 days at soil temperatures between 15-25°C. transplant when seedlings have developed 3-4 true leaves, usually 3-4 weeks after sowing. Radicchio seedlings need to be planted out before they are 30 days old. When transplanting, handle seedlings carefully to minimize root disturbance.

If direct sowing, sow seeds to a depth twice the size of the seed in drills. Thin plants to 20-25 cm apart with rows 25-30 cm apart. For heading varieties like radicchio, proper spacing is essential for good head formation. Refer to information specific to the variety.

To extend the harvest period, rather than succession planting, plant varieties with different days to maturity in the same planting window. This is called slotting. 

After planting, water thoroughly with a seaweed solution to help reduce transplant shock.

Cultivation

In Canberra, the ideal times to plant chicory and radicchio seed are from the winter solstice until the end of the first week of January. Seedlings can be planted in January.

Water regularly but moderately, as chicory and radicchio have deep taproots that help them access water. Aim for consistent soil moisture but avoid waterlogging, which can lead to root rot. Reduce watering slightly as heads mature to intensify flavour.

Apply a balanced complete organic fertilizer at planting time. Unlike leafy greens such as lettuce, chicory and radicchio don’t require heavy feeding. In fact, too much nitrogen can produce lush but less flavourful leaves. A monthly foliar spray with seaweed solution; a mix of worm juice, seaweed and compost tea; or trace elements will help boost growth and resilience to pests and diseases.

For blanched chicory (witloof) extra effort is required. At the time of writing there was only one Australian commercial grower of witloof! It is truly a specialty crop. Witloof can be grown for harvest of fresh greens after 55 days. To produce blanched heads some research is advised. After about 115 days in late Autumn, cut off the leaves of the mature plants 2-3 cm above the crown. Dig up the roots, trim to 15-20 cm, and store in a cool, close to 0ºC, dark place for 2-3 weeks. Then replant them in containers with sand or soil, keep in complete darkness at about 10-15°C, waiting for a new terminal bud to emerge. Harvest the blanched chicons once they are dense. 

For radicchio, cold temperatures will stimulate the development of the beautiful red pigments. 

Harvesting

Leaf chicories can be harvested as needed once plants are established, taking outer leaves first and allowing the centre to continue growing. Cut leaves in the morning when they’re crisp and at their best. The flavour of chicory and radicchio becomes more intense in cold weather.

For heading radicchio varieties, harvest when heads are firm and have reached their expected size, typically 10-15 cm in diameter. Cut at the base with a sharp knife. Heading varieties are usually ready 80-110 days after sowing, depending on the variety and growing conditions. The outer leaves are usually discarded to reveal a compact, head of leaves. The Treviso varieties have very tightly wrapped leaves.

Belgian endive chicons should be harvested when they’re firm and 10-15 cm long, cutting just above the root.

Problems

The best approach is to have a reliable Australian reference book to identify problems. Garden Pests, Disease and Good Bugs by Denis Crawford is recommended.

A general strategy to follow with any problem is to observe the plant carefully before taking action. Identify the problem then carefully consider the course of action. For example, with pest insects, you often can see a predator nearby. If you watch and wait the predator may deal with the problem for you. Beneficial predatory insects which feed on pest insects can be purchased from suppliers such as Bugs for Bugs. If the problem needs further action the above recommended book has suggestions. 

Practicing good garden hygiene, crop rotation, and maintaining plant vigour by providing adequate nutrients are key strategies for prevention.

Chicory and radicchio are relatively trouble-free crops, but they can face some challenges:

Slugs and Snails: are the most common pests especially during wet periods. They leave irregular holes in leaves and slime trails. Control methods include beer traps, copper tape barriers, organic snail baits (iron EDTA), or manual removal in the evening.

Aphids: These small sap-sucking insects can transmit celery mosaic virus. They often cluster on the undersides of leaves, causing distortion and stunting. Small populations can be controlled by washing them off with a strong stream of water or using insecticidal soap. Alternatively, neem oil or pyrethrin can be used. Beneficial predators like ladybugs and lacewings should be encouraged and can be purchased for release on the crop. Look for aphid mummies which are evidence that the aphid has been parasitised. Eggs can also be parasitised and will appear bronze in colour. Generally speaking, plants that are high in soluble nitrogen (nitrates and ammonia) are prone to attack by sap sucking insects. Ideally avoid using soluble nitrogen fertilisers and ensure plants have adequate trace elements. This can be achieved by using foliar sprays.

Powdery Mildew: A fungal disease appearing as white powdery spots on leaves. Occurs more commonly in humid conditions with poor air circulation. Improve spacing between plants, avoid overhead watering, and apply organic fungicides if necessary.

Bolting: Premature flowering can occur due to heat stress, long daylight hours, or other environmental stressors. Plant at appropriate times and ensure consistent watering during warm weather to reduce risk.

Bottom Rot: A fungal disease that causes rotting at the base of the plant. Avoid overwatering, ensure good drainage, and practice crop rotation to prevent recurrence.

Bitter Taste: While some bitterness is characteristic of endive, excessive bitterness can result from poor mineral nutrition, heat stress, irregular watering, or harvesting too late. Providing adequate mineral nutrition to plants by using a complete organic fertiliser just prior to planting, using monthly foliar sprays and providing adequate water will allow for optimal growth which avoids uncharacteristic bitterness. Consistent care and blanching before harvest can help reduce unwanted bitterness.

Recommended Varieties

There has been a large breeding program for radicchio and chicory resulting in many open pollinated varieties that do well in Canberra’s climate. Keen radicchio and chicory growers are advised to explore the varieties available from Active Vista. Their website has detailed specific cultivation information for each variety. 

Radicchio:

  • Chioggia – round red and white heads, the most common type
  • Treviso – elongated red and white heads with stronger flavour
  • Verona – semi-heading type with red leaves and prominent white ribs
  • Castelfranco – cream-colored leaves splashed with red, milder flavour

Leaf Chicory:

  • Catalogna (Italian dandelion) – green serrated leaves similar to dandelion
  • Grumolo – forms rosettes of green or red leaves, cold-hardy
  • Pan di Zucchero (sugarloaf) – forms tall, light green heads with mild flavour

Belgian Endive/Witloof:

  • Whitlof Chicory
  • Totem – traditional variety with good forcing characteristics

References

  1. Active Vista. 2025. https://www.activevista.com.au/
  2. Bubel, Nancy. The New Seed-Starters Handbook. Rodale Books, 2018.
  3. Crawford D. Garden Pests, Disease and Good Bugs. Australia: ABC Books; 2015.
  4. Dove, Helena. Botany of the Kitchen Garden, Kew Publishing, Royal Botanic Gardens Kew, UK, 2023. 
  5. Fanton, Michel and Jude. The Seed Savers Handbook. The Seed Savers Network, Australia, 1993.
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